Holloway Mountain, Foscoe, North Carolina
A small site with a variety of face climbing routes, with easy access for top rope anchors. Great for beginners, the routes range from a 5.4 scramble to the 5.12 trad classic, ‘Changeling’. The crag is shaded in summer and gets winter sun in the afternoon. It is a popular site and can get crowded quickly on the weekends. Facing the rock, routes are easiest on the right and progress in difficulty going to the left. There are three crack routes from 5.7 to 5.9. This site provides a great opportunity to practice lead climbing with the BSA-required top rope belay.
Activities and Anchors
Access for top rope belay anchors is by rough trails on either side of the crag. Top rope anchors consist mostly of large, living trees and some rock slabs. Anchors are far from the top cliff edge so long webbing loops (20’-30’) are needed to set top rope belay anchors. Another approach is to use a single static rope to tie-in to 2 or more anchors. There are no bolts for top rope anchors. WARNING: The cliff top area slopes moderately to the cliff edge so safety lines must be used immediately as enter the cliff top area.
The site has several good rappel routes. As noted above, anchors are set 20’-30’ from the cliff edge and the rappel rope can be re-directed to a chest-high anchor point using trees nearest to the cliff edge.
From Boone, take HWY 105 south to Foscoe (where the speed limit drops to 35). Turn left onto Church Rd (by the gas station), and take another left onto Holloway Mountain Rd (gravel). Park in one of two pull-offs on the right side of the road, only about a quarter-mile up the road. DO NOT PARK DIRECTLY ON ROAD AT THE TRAILHEAD. Hike up the road a short distance until you see the trail on your left. A very short, steep hike will put you at the cliff, directly in front of the tallest routes. The area can also be accessed from the Blue Ridge Parkway at the US221-Holloway Mountain Road exit, south of Julian Price Park.
No camping at this site. There are many public campgrounds along the Blue Ridge Parkway, including Julian Price Park and Linville Falls.
Phone service can be limited in this area. Be prepared for emergency evacuation to NC105 at Foscoe for EMS.
Watauga Medical Center, 336 Deerfield Road, Boone. 828-262-4100 Take Holloway Mountain Road to Foscoe and take NC105 to Boone. In Boone, follow the blue Hospital signs.