Climbing Shoes: Black Diamond Momentum Vs La Sportiva Tarantulace
Choosing the right pair of climbing shoes can be difficult – especially when deciding between two models as popular as the Black Diamond Momentum and La Sportiva Tarantulace. Both are great choices for climbers of any level, but there are some important differences that should be considered before making a purchase. In this article, we’ll compare the Black Diamond Momentum and La Sportiva Tarantulace side-by-side and discuss their features, pros and cons.
Comparison Table
| Feature | Black Diamond Momentum | La Sportiva Tarantulace |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Snug | Generous |
| Type of Climbing | Crack and Traditional | Sport and Bouldering |
| Sole Stiffness | Medium-Stiff | Soft |
| Shape | Slightly Curved | Slightly Flat |
| Closure System | Lace-Up | Slipper |
| Materials | Synthetic Upper, Rubber Sole | Leather Upper, Rubber Sole |
| Price | $80-90 | $90-100 |
| Toe Box Shape | Pointed | Rounded |
| Heel Cup | Curved | Flatter |
| Weight | 10 ounces (size 9) | 11 ounces (size 9) |
| Level of Ventilation | Perforated Tongue and Heel | Leather Upper |
Fit
The fit of a pair of climbing shoes is one of the most important characteristics to consider when shopping. A good fit should feel snug and secure, but not overly tight – and it should be comfortable enough to wear for extended periods of time.
Both the Black Diamond Momentum and La Sportiva Tarantulace have a snug fit that is comfortable when worn for long periods of time. The Momentum has a more precise fit and is slightly narrower than the Tarantulace, which is ideal for climbers who prefer a snug fit. The Tarantulace also has a slightly more generous fit that is better for wider feet.
The Momentum has a slightly higher profile than the Tarantulace, which makes it feel more secure on the foot. The Tarantulace has a lower profile, which is more comfortable and better for those who prefer a lower-profile fit.
Type of Climbing
The type of climbing you’ll be doing should also be taken into consideration when choosing a pair of shoes. The Black Diamond Momentum is designed for crack and traditional climbing, while the La Sportiva Tarantulace is well-suited for sport and bouldering.
The Momentum has a stiff midsole and a firm rubber sole, which makes it great for edging and standing on small holds. The Tarantulace has a softer midsole and a more flexible rubber sole, which makes it better for smearing and sticking to small features.
The Tarantulace also has a large rand that wraps around the toes and provides extra protection for crack climbing. The Momentum does not have this feature, but its stiffer sole makes it better for edging.
Sole Stiffness
The stiffness of the sole is an important factor to consider when choosing a pair of climbing shoes. A stiffer sole provides better edging performance and more stability, while a softer sole provides better smearing performance and more sensitivity.
The Black Diamond Momentum has a medium-stiff sole that provides excellent edging performance, while the La Sportiva Tarantulace has a softer sole that provides excellent smearing performance. The Momentum also has a slight “rocker” shape to its sole that makes it easier to stand on small holds, while the Tarantulace has a slightly more flat sole that is better for smearing.
Shape
The shape of a pair of climbing shoes is another important factor to consider. A shoe with a curved shape will provide better performance on edges, while a shoe with a flat shape is better for smearing.
The Black Diamond Momentum has a slightly curved shape that makes it great for edging, while the La Sportiva Tarantulace has a slightly flatter shape that is better for smearing. The Momentum also has a slightly higher profile, which helps to keep your foot in place on small holds.
Closure System
The type of closure system used on a pair of climbing shoes can also be an important factor to consider. The Black Diamond Momentum uses a lace-up closure system and the La Sportiva Tarantulace uses a slipper-style closure.
The lace-up closure system on the Momentum provides a secure fit that is adjustable and can be easily tightened or loosened as needed. The slipper-style closure on the Tarantulace is quick and easy to slip on and off, and offers the same secure fit.
Materials
The materials used in the construction of a pair of climbing shoes can have a big impact on their performance and comfort. The Black Diamond Momentum and La Sportiva Tarantulace both use quality materials that provide an excellent fit and comfort.
The Momentum is constructed with a synthetic upper and a rubber sole, while the Tarantulace is constructed with a leather upper and a rubber sole. The leather upper on the Tarantulace is more breathable, while the synthetic upper on the Momentum is more durable.
The Momentum also features a perforated tongue and heel for added ventilation, which helps to keep your feet cool and comfortable during long climbs.
Price
Price should also be taken into consideration when shopping for a pair of climbing shoes. The Black Diamond Momentum retails for around $80-90, while the La Sportiva Tarantulace retails for around $90-100.Both shoes offer excellent performance and are reasonably priced. However, the Momentum is slightly more affordable and may be a better option for those on a tight budget.
Personal Preference
At the end of the day, choosing the right pair of climbing shoes is a matter of personal preference. Different climbers have different preferences when it comes to style, fit, and performance.
The Black Diamond Momentum and La Sportiva Tarantulace are both excellent choices for any climber. The Momentum is better for edging and crack climbing, while the Tarantulace is better for smearing and bouldering. Each shoe offers a comfortable fit and excellent performance, so it’s up to the individual climber to decide which one is best for them.
Toe Box Shape
The shape of the toe box is another important factor to consider when shopping for climbing shoes. The toe box should provide enough room for your toes to spread out and grip holds, but should not be so wide that your toes slide around inside the shoe.
The Black Diamond Momentum has a slightly pointed toe box that provides a snug fit, while the La Sportiva Tarantulace has a more rounded toe box that provides a bit more room. The Momentum also has a slightly higher toe box, which makes it better for edging, while the Tarantulace has a lower toe box that is better for smearing.
Heel Cup
The heel cup of a pair of climbing shoes is an important factor that should not be overlooked. The heel cup should fit snugly around your heel and provide good support.
The Black Diamond Momentum has a slightly more curved heel cup that provides excellent support for traditional climbing, while the La Sportiva Tarantulace has a slightly flatter heel cup that is better for smearing. The Momentum also has an adjustable heel strap that helps to keep your heel in place, while the Tarantulace does not have this feature.
Weight
Weight is an important factor to consider when shopping for climbing shoes. A lighter pair of shoes will be more comfortable to wear for extended periods of time, while a heavier pair will be more durable and provide better performance.
The Black Diamond Momentum is slightly lighter than the La Sportiva Tarantulace, weighing in at 10 ounces (size 9) compared to the Tarantulace’s 11 ounces (size 9). The Momentum is also slightly narrower than the Tarantulace, which helps to reduce the overall weight.
Level of Ventilation
The level of ventilation is another important factor to consider when shopping for climbing shoes. Climbing shoes should provide enough ventilation to keep your feet cool and comfortable during long climbs.
The Black Diamond Momentum has a perforated tongue and heel for added ventilation, while the La Sportiva Tarantulace does not have this feature. The Tarantulace does have a slightly more breathable leather upper, which helps to keep your feet cool and comfortable.
Conclusion
The Black Diamond Momentum and La Sportiva Tarantulace are both excellent choices for climbers of any level. The Momentum is better for crack and traditional climbing, while the Tarantulace is better for sport and bouldering. They both have a comfortable fit and offer excellent performance, but the Momentum is slightly more affordable and lighter. Ultimately, the choice between the two will come down to personal preference and the type of climbing you’ll be doing.