Comparing the Evolv Shaman and the Scarpa Drago
When it comes to climbing shoes, two of the top options on the market are the Evolv Shaman and the Scarpa Drago. Both shoes are excellent choices for a variety of vertical routes and both are designed to provide the utmost precision and sensitivity when making delicate foot placements. That being said, there are a few differences between the two models, which we will discuss in detail in this article.
| Feature | Evolv Shaman | Scarpa Drago |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Slipper fit | Mid-volume fit |
| Type of Climbing | All-around | Sport climbing |
| Sole Stiffness | Medium | High |
| Shape | Asymmetric | Asymmetric |
| Closure System | Velcro strap | Lace-up |
| Materials | Synthetic | Leather |
| Price | $180 | $180 |
| Toe Box Shape | Highly downturned | Symmetrical |
| Heel Cup | Aggressively downturned | Aggressively downturned |
| Weight | 7.4 oz (US Men’s 9) | 8.3 oz (US Men’s 9) |
| Level of Ventilation | Moderate | High |
Fit
The Evolv Shaman has a slipper fit, providing a snug, glove-like fit that conforms to the foot. The Scarpa Drago, on the other hand, features a mid-volume fit, meaning that while it fits snugly, it’s not quite as tight as the Shaman. This makes it suitable for climbers with wider feet, as well as those who prefer a little bit of extra room.
When it comes to comfort, both the Shaman and the Drago are fairly well-padded, making them suitable for longer climbing sessions. However, the Shaman does have slightly more padding, which makes it slightly more comfortable in this regard.
Type of Climbing
The Evolv Shaman is an all-around shoe, meaning that it can be used for a variety of climbing disciplines. This includes everything from bouldering to sport climbing to multi-pitch routes. The Scarpa Drago, on the other hand, is specifically designed for sport climbing. This means that it has slightly less rubber on the toe, allowing for better toe-hooking performance. It also has a slightly higher tensioned heel, which helps to keep the foot locked in place when taking hard heel hooks.
Sole Stiffness
The Evolv Shaman features a medium sole stiffness, making it a great option for long routes and technical face climbing. The Scarpa Drago, on the other hand, has a stiffer sole, which makes it better suited to more difficult sport climbing and steep overhangs.
Shape
Both the Evolv Shaman and the Scarpa Drago feature asymmetrical shapes. This means that they are designed to fit the natural shape of the foot, providing support in all the right places while still allowing for plenty of agility and control.
Closure System
The Evolv Shaman uses a velcro strap closure system, which provides a secure fit and is easy to adjust on the go. The Scarpa Drago, on the other hand, uses a lace-up system, which allows for a more customized fit and is ideal for those who like to take their time when putting on their shoes.
Materials
The Evolv Shaman is made from synthetic materials, which make it lightweight and provide a high level of breathability. The Scarpa Drago, on the other hand, uses a combination of leather and synthetic materials, which provide plenty of durability but don’t quite offer the same level of breathability.
Price
The Evolv Shaman and the Scarpa Drago both retail for $180, making them mid-priced options. This makes them ideal for those who are looking for a quality shoe without spending too much money.Personal Preference
Ultimately, the decision between the Evolv Shaman and the Scarpa Drago comes down to personal preference. Both shoes are excellent options for a variety of climbing disciplines and provide the utmost precision and sensitivity when making delicate foot placements. However, climbers with wider feet may find the Drago to be a better option, while those who prefer a more snug fit may prefer the Shaman.
Toe Box Shape
The Evolv Shaman has a highly downturned toe box, which helps to provide greater precision when it comes to toe hooks and technical edging. The Scarpa Drago, on the other hand, features a more symmetrical toe box, which is more suitable for those who prefer a slightly more relaxed fit.
Heel Cup
Both the Evolv Shaman and the Scarpa Drago have aggressively downturned heel cups, which provide excellent heel hooking performance. This makes them both great options for more advanced climbers who prefer powerful heel hooks.
Weight
The Evolv Shaman is slightly lighter than the Scarpa Drago, with a size 9 US Men’s weighing in at 7.4 oz compared to 8.3 oz for the Scarpa Drago. This makes the Shaman the better choice for those who prefer a lightweight shoe.
Level of Ventilation
The Evolv Shaman provides a moderate level of ventilation, which makes it suitable for longer climbing sessions. The Scarpa Drago, on the other hand, has a much higher level of ventilation, making it a great choice for those who require a cooler and more breathable shoe.
In conclusion, both the Evolv Shaman and the Scarpa Drago are excellent choices for a variety of climbing disciplines. They both offer a high level of precision and sensitivity, as well as plenty of comfort and support. That being said, there are a few differences between the two models, which may make one more suitable for a particular climber than the other. Ultimately, the decision is up to the individual and their personal preferences.