Overview
The La Sportiva Genius and Futura are two of the most popular climbing shoes available on the market. Both models were designed with a focus on high performance, making them great choices for experienced climbers. The main differences between the two models are their fit, type of climbing, sole stiffness, shape, closure system, materials, weight, level of ventilation, and toe box shape. In this article, we will compare the La Sportiva Genius and Futura and provide our personal preference for each.
Comparison Table
| Feature | La Sportiva Genius | La Sportiva Futura |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Slightly asymmetrical | Symmetrical |
| Type of Climbing | Bouldering & Sport Climbing | All-around |
| Sole Stiffness | Medium | Medium-stiff |
| Shape | Asymmetrical | Symmetrical |
| Closure System | Velcro | Lace-up |
| Materials | Leather & Vibram XS Edge | Leather & Vibram XS Grip |
| Price | $$ | $$ |
| Toe Box Shape | Pointy | Round |
| Heel Cup | Deep & Aggressive | Shallow & Moderate |
| Weight | 9.4 oz | 10.4 oz |
| Level of Ventilation | Low | High |
Fit
The La Sportiva Genius has a slightly asymmetrical fit with a slightly wider toe box than its counterpart, the La Sportiva Futura. This makes the Genius a great option for those with wider feet. It also has a slightly lower volume than the Futura, making it a better choice for those with narrow feet. The Futura, on the other hand, has a more symmetrical fit with a generous toe box. This makes it ideal for beginners and those with wider feet. The Futura also has a higher volume than the Genius, making it a great option for those with larger feet.
The Genius has a more snug fit than the Futura. The Genius’ lacing system is also more precise, allowing you to make more precise adjustments to the fit. The Futura’s lace-up system is more forgiving, making it easier to take on and off.
The Genius is also slightly longer than the Futura, making it better suited to those with longer feet. The Futura’s shorter length makes it a better option for those with shorter feet.
Type of Climbing
The La Sportiva Genius is designed for bouldering and sport climbing. The slightly asymmetrical shape and medium sole stiffness make it a great option for those looking to tackle technical routes. The Genius also has a deep and aggressive heel cup that offers excellent heel hooking and edging capabilities.
The La Sportiva Futura is designed for all-around climbing. The symmetrical shape and medium-stiff sole make it a great option for those looking to climb a variety of routes. The Futura also has a shallow and moderate heel cup that provides a good balance between support and sensitivity.
Sole Stiffness
The La Sportiva Genius has a medium sole stiffness that provides excellent support and sensitivity. The midsole also has a good level of flexibility, making it comfortable to wear for long periods of time. The stiffer midsole also helps to reduce foot fatigue and ensures the shoe’s longevity.
The La Sportiva Futura has a medium-stiff sole that provides excellent stiffness and support. The midsole also has a good level of flexibility, making it comfortable to wear for long periods of time. The stiffer midsole also helps to reduce foot fatigue and ensures the shoe’s longevity.
Shape
The La Sportiva Genius has an asymmetrical shape that helps to provide better contact with the rock. The asymmetrical shape also helps to reduce any discomfort caused by pressure points. The slightly downturned toe also helps to provide better edging capabilities.
The La Sportiva Futura has a symmetrical shape that helps to provide a more balanced fit. The symmetrical shape also helps to reduce any discomfort caused by pressure points. The slightly downturned toe also helps to provide better edging capabilities.
Closure System
The La Sportiva Genius has a Velcro closure system that makes it easy to put on and take off. The Velcro straps also allow you to make more precise adjustments to the fit. The Velcro closure system also helps to ensure a secure fit and prevents the shoe from slipping off during use.
The La Sportiva Futura has a lace-up closure system that makes it easy to put on and take off. The lace-up system also allows for more forgiving adjustments to the fit. The lace-up closure system also helps to provide a secure fit and prevents the shoe from slipping off during use.
Materials
The La Sportiva Genius is made from leather and Vibram XS Edge rubber. This combination of materials provides excellent durability and grip. The leather also helps to provide a snug and secure fit, while the Vibram XS Edge rubber helps to ensure excellent grip and durability.
The La Sportiva Futura is made from leather and Vibram XS Grip rubber. This combination of materials provides excellent durability and grip. The leather also helps to provide a snug and secure fit, while the Vibram XS Grip rubber helps to ensure excellent grip and durability.
Price
The La Sportiva Genius and Futura both retail for around $$. This puts them in the mid-range price bracket for climbing shoes. Both shoes are great value for money and offer excellent performance and durability.Personal Preference
Our personal preference for the La Sportiva Genius and Futura largely depends on the type of climbing you plan to do. If you are mainly bouldering and sport climbing, the Genius is the better option. The slightly asymmetrical shape, velcro closure system, and medium sole stiffness make it a great choice for those wanting to tackle technical routes. The Futura, on the other hand, is better suited to all-around climbers. The symmetrical shape, lace-up closure system, and medium-stiff sole make it a great choice for those looking to climb a variety of routes.
Toe Box Shape
The La Sportiva Genius has a pointy toe box shape. This shape is great for those wanting to tackle technical routes as it helps to provide better contact with the rock and ensures a more precise fit. The Futura, on the other hand, has a round toe box shape. This shape is great for those wanting to climb a variety of routes as it helps to provide a more balanced fit and ensures maximum comfort.
Heel Cup
The La Sportiva Genius has a deep and aggressive heel cup. This shape helps to provide excellent heel hooking and edging capabilities, making it a great choice for experienced climbers. The Futura, on the other hand, has a shallow and moderate heel cup. This shape helps to provide a good balance between support and sensitivity, making it a great choice for beginners.
Weight
The La Sportiva Genius weighs 9.4 oz and the Futura weighs 10.4 oz. This difference in weight is due to the differences in materials used in each model. The Genius is slightly lighter, making it better suited to those looking to cover more ground quickly. The Futura is slightly heavier, making it better suited to those looking for more support.
Level of Ventilation
The La Sportiva Genius has a low level of ventilation due to the leather upper. This makes it better suited to cooler climates and helps to ensure maximum warmth. The Futura, on the other hand, has a high level of ventilation due to the breathable mesh upper. This makes it better suited to warmer climates and helps to ensure maximum breathability.
Conclusion
To sum up, the La Sportiva Genius and Futura are two of the most popular climbing shoes available on the market. Both models were designed with a focus on high performance, making them great choices for experienced climbers. The main differences between the two models are their fit, type of climbing, sole stiffness, shape, closure system, materials, weight, level of ventilation, and toe box shape.
The La Sportiva Genius is a great choice for those looking to tackle technical routes. It has a slightly asymmetrical fit, Velcro closure system, medium sole stiffness, pointy toe box shape, and deep and aggressive heel cup. The Futura, on the other hand, is better suited to all-around climbers. It has a symmetrical fit, lace-up closure system, medium-stiff sole, round toe box shape, and shallow and moderate heel cup.
Ultimately, both the La Sportiva Genius and Futura offer excellent performance and durability, making them great choices for experienced climbers. The choice between the two models largely depends on the type of climbing you plan to do and your personal preferences.