Comparing La Sportiva Solution and Scarpa Instinct
The La Sportiva Solution and the Scarpa Instinct have been climbing shoe mainstays for a while now. Both are great shoes for bouldering, sport climbing, and all-around climbing. Both offer good support, durability, and comfort. So, which one is right for you? This article compares the two shoes in several categories and gives a general overview of their similarities and differences.
| Features | La Sportiva Solution | Scarpa Instinct |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Aggressive | Neutral/Aggressive |
| Type of Climbing | Bouldering/sport climbing | All-around/technical climbing |
| Sole Stiffness | Stiff | Moderately stiff |
| Shape | Asymmetric | Asymmetric |
| Closure System | Lace | Velcro |
| Materials | Leather/Rubber | Leather/Rubber |
| Price | Moderate | Expensive |
| Personal Preference | Depends | Depends |
Fit
The La Sportiva Solution is designed to give climbers an aggressive and precise fit. The heel of the shoe has a slingshot rand that wraps over your heel and locks it in place, making it perfect for difficult climbing. The toe box is also quite aggressive and is good for climbing steep faces and overhangs. On the other hand, the Scarpa Instinct is designed to provide a more neutral fit. It has a slingshot rand but it isn’t as aggressive as the one on the Solution. This makes it a good choice for people who are looking for a comfortable fit while still having the support they need.
The La Sportiva Solution has a more precise fit, so it may be uncomfortable on wider feet. The Scarpa Instinct is more accommodating for wider feet because it has a wider toe box. This makes it more comfortable for all-day climbing, but it may not be as secure on steep terrain.
The La Sportiva Solution has a tighter fit and is better for people who want a precise fit for technical climbing. The Scarpa Instinct has a more relaxed fit, so it is better for people who don’t need as much precision and want a more comfortable fit.
Type of Climbing
The La Sportiva Solution is designed for climbing steep faces and overhangs, so it is well-suited for bouldering and sport climbing. The reinforced toe and heel provide good edging and smearing power, and the aggressive shape helps you stick to steep terrain. On the other hand, the Scarpa Instinct is designed for all-around climbing. It is well-suited for technical climbing and longer routes because of its neutral fit and moderate stiffness. It is also good for multi-pitch routes because of its comfort and the stability it provides.
The La Sportiva Solution is best for climbing steep terrain, but it can still handle lower-angle routes. The Scarpa Instinct is better for multi-pitch routes and technical climbing routes, but it can still handle steep terrain.
Sole Stiffness
The La Sportiva Solution has a stiff sole that is designed for edging and precision on steep faces and overhangs. The stiff sole also provides good support while climbing. On the other hand, the Scarpa Instinct has a moderately stiff sole that provides good edging and smearing power, but it also offers more comfort and flexibility. It is not as stiff as the Solution, but it is still stiff enough to provide good support.
The La Sportiva Solution is best for more technical climbing and steep terrain, while the Scarpa Instinct is better for all-around and multi-pitch routes.
Shape
The La Sportiva Solution has an asymmetric shape that is designed to give climbers an aggressive fit. The toe box is slightly downturned and the heel is slingshot for maximum precision. The Scarpa Instinct also has an asymmetric shape, but it is not as aggressive as the Solution. The toe box is slightly downturned and the heel is slightly slingshot for good precision without sacrificing comfort.
The La Sportiva Solution has an aggressive shape that is designed for climbing steep terrain, while the Scarpa Instinct has a slightly less aggressive shape that is designed for all-around climbing.
Closure System
The La Sportiva Solution has a lace closure system that is designed to give a snug and secure fit. The laces can be adjusted to fit your feet perfectly and provide a precise fit. On the other hand, the Scarpa Instinct has a velcro closure system that is designed to be quick and easy to use. The velcro straps can be adjusted to fit your feet perfectly, but they may not provide as precise a fit as the laces on the Solution.
The La Sportiva Solution has a lace closure system that is more precise and secure, while the Scarpa Instinct has a velcro closure system that is easier to use and more comfortable.
Materials
The La Sportiva Solution is made from leather and rubber, and it is designed to be durable and long-lasting. The leather upper is comfortable and provides good support, and the rubber sole is stiff and durable. On the other hand, the Scarpa Instinct is also made from leather and rubber, but the rubber sole is slightly softer and more comfortable. The leather upper is comfortable and supportive, and the rubber sole is durable and long-lasting.
The La Sportiva Solution is made from leather and rubber, while the Scarpa Instinct is made from leather and rubber, but the rubber sole is slightly softer and more comfortable.
Price
The La Sportiva Solution is generally a more affordable option. It is usually priced in the mid-range, making it a good choice for budget-conscious climbers. On the other hand, the Scarpa Instinct is usually priced in the high-end range, making it more expensive than the Solution.The La Sportiva Solution is generally more affordable, while the Scarpa Instinct is usually more expensive.
Personal Preference
Both the La Sportiva Solution and the Scarpa Instinct are great shoes for climbing. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference. If you are looking for an aggressive fit and precise performance on steep terrain, the Solution is the way to go. If you are looking for a more relaxed fit for all-around climbing and longer routes, the Instinct is the right choice.
Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference.
Toe Box Shape
The La Sportiva Solution has a downturned toe box that is designed to give climbers an aggressive fit. This makes it great for climbing steep faces and overhangs. On the other hand, the Scarpa Instinct has a slightly less aggressive toe box that is designed to give climbers a comfortable fit. This makes it better for all-around climbing and longer routes.
The La Sportiva Solution has a downturned toe box that is designed for aggressive climbing, while the Scarpa Instinct has a less aggressive toe box that is designed for all-around and multi-pitch climbing.
Heel Cup
The La Sportiva Solution has a slingshot rand that wraps over your heel and locks it in place for precise and secure climbing. The Scarpa Instinct also has a slingshot rand, but it is not as aggressive as the Solution. This makes it more comfortable, but it may not be as secure on steep terrain.
The La Sportiva Solution has a slingshot rand that is more aggressive and secure, while the Scarpa Instinct has a slingshot rand that is more comfortable and less precise.
Weight
The La Sportiva Solution is slightly heavier than the Scarpa Instinct, but the difference is not drastic. The Solution comes in at around 10 ounces, while the Instinct comes in at around 8 ounces.
The La Sportiva Solution is slightly heavier than the Scarpa Instinct.
Level of Ventilation
The La Sportiva Solution has good ventilation, with mesh panels in the upper and breathable leather panels. This makes it a good choice for warm climates. On the other hand, the Scarpa Instinct also has good ventilation, but the mesh panels are not as breathable as the ones on the Solution.
The La Sportiva Solution has better ventilation than the Scarpa Instinct.
Conclusion
The La Sportiva Solution and the Scarpa Instinct are both great shoes for climbing. The Solution is designed to give climbers an aggressive fit and precise performance on steep terrain, while the Instinct is designed to provide a more neutral fit and comfort for all-around climbing and longer routes. Ultimately, the choice comes down to personal preference, but both shoes offer good performance and durability.