La Sportiva Testarossa Vs Otaki
Climbing shoes are a vital piece of equipment for any climber, and choosing the right pair can make a huge difference in your performance. Two popular choices of climbing shoes are La Sportiva Testarossa and Scarpa Otaki. Both of these shoes are well-loved by climbers and have a lot of features to offer. In this article, we compare the La Sportiva Testarossa and Scarpa Otaki to help climbers decide which shoe is right for them.
Comparison Table
| Feature | La Sportiva Testarossa | Scarpa Otaki |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Aggressive | Aggressive |
| Type of Climbing | All-around | All-around |
| Sole Stiffness | Medium | Medium |
| Shape | Curved | Curved |
| Closure System | Lace-up | Lace-up |
| Materials | Leather | Leather |
| Price | High | Medium |
| Personal Preference | Comfort | Performance |
| Toe Box Shape | Asymmetrical | Neutral |
| Heel Cup | High | Low |
| Weight | Heavy | Light |
| Level of Ventilation | Low | High |
Fit
The La Sportiva Testarossa is an aggressive shoe, designed to hug your foot and provide an extra level of support when climbing. It has a slightly curved last with an asymmetrical toe box, which helps it fit snugly. On the other hand, the Scarpa Otaki is also an aggressive shoe, but it has a neutral shape and a slightly wider heel, making it more suitable for wider feet.
The La Sportiva Testarossa is also known for its snug fit, which can be adjusted to fit your foot perfectly. The Scarpa Otaki also has an adjustable fit, but it doesn’t hold your foot as tightly as the Testarossa. It’s comfortable enough for everyday wear, but it’s not as snug as the Testarossa.
The fit of these shoes will depend on your individual foot shape and size, so it’s important to try them on before making a purchase. However, the La Sportiva Testarossa is generally a better choice for those with narrower feet, while the Scarpa Otaki is better for those with wider feet.
Type of Climbing
The La Sportiva Testarossa is designed for all-around climbing, whether it’s in the gym or on the rock. It has a medium-stiff sole that can handle a wide range of terrain, from slabby faces to overhangs. The Scarpa Otaki is also designed for all-around climbing, but it has a slightly softer sole, making it better suited for technical climbing and delicate footwork.
The La Sportiva Testarossa can also be used for more specialized types of climbing, such as crack climbing or edging. However, the Scarpa Otaki is better suited for sport climbing and bouldering, as it offers less support and stability for steep and overhanging routes.
Sole Stiffness
The La Sportiva Testarossa has a medium-stiff sole, making it a great all-around shoe for a variety of terrain. It provides enough stiffness for edging and smearing, while still allowing for some flexibility. The Scarpa Otaki has a slightly softer sole, making it better suited for technical climbing and delicate footwork. The softer sole allows you to feel and grip small features, which is great for climbers who prefer to feel the rock rather than relying on the shoe to do the work.
Shape
The La Sportiva Testarossa has a slightly curved last with an asymmetrical toe box, which helps it fit snugly. The Scarpa Otaki has a neutral shape and a slightly wider heel, which is better for those with wider feet. Both shoes have a slightly downturned shape, which makes them ideal for edging and smearing.
Closure System
The La Sportiva Testarossa and the Scarpa Otaki both feature a lace-up closure system. This allows you to adjust the fit of the shoe to your individual foot shape and size. The laces provide a secure fit and make it easy to put the shoe on and take off.
Materials
The La Sportiva Testarossa and the Scarpa Otaki are both made with leather uppers, which provide durability and flexibility. The leather also helps to mold to the shape of your foot, providing a comfortable fit. The midsoles of both shoes are made with EVA foam, which provides cushioning and shock absorption.
Price
The La Sportiva Testarossa is more expensive than the Scarpa Otaki, but the price difference is not huge. The Testarossa is a high-end shoe that is designed for climbers who want the best performance. The Otaki is a mid-range shoe that offers good performance at a more affordable price.Personal Preference
The La Sportiva Testarossa is a great all-around shoe that can handle a wide range of terrain. It has a snug fit, medium-stiff sole, and asymmetrical toe box, making it ideal for edging and smearing. The Scarpa Otaki is better suited for technical climbing and delicate footwork, as it has a slightly softer sole and a wider heel. It also offers more ventilation, making it a great choice for hot days.
Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference. If you want a high-performance shoe with a snug fit, the La Sportiva Testarossa is a great choice. If you want a more affordable shoe with a slightly wider heel, the Scarpa Otaki is a good option.
Toe Box Shape
The La Sportiva Testarossa has an asymmetrical toe box, which helps it fit snugly and provides support for edging and smearing. The Scarpa Otaki has a neutral toe box, which is better for those with wider feet. The neutral toe box allows for more freedom of movement, but it doesn’t provide as much support as the asymmetrical toe box of the Testarossa.
Heel Cup
The La Sportiva Testarossa has a high heel cup, which cradles the heel and provides extra support when climbing. The Scarpa Otaki has a low heel cup, which is better for those with wider feet. The low heel cup allows more freedom of movement, but it doesn’t provide as much support as the high heel cup of the Testarossa.
Weight
The La Sportiva Testarossa is a heavy shoe, weighing in at 11.2 ounces (318 grams). The Scarpa Otaki is much lighter, weighing in at 8.7 ounces (247 grams). This makes the Otaki a better choice for those who want a lighter shoe.
Level of Ventilation
The La Sportiva Testarossa has low levels of ventilation, making it a better choice for cooler climates. The Scarpa Otaki has higher levels of ventilation, making it better suited for hot days.
Conclusion
When it comes to choosing the right climbing shoe, it’s important to consider all factors. The La Sportiva Testarossa is a high-performance shoe that is designed for all-around climbing and features a snug fit, medium-stiff sole, and asymmetrical toe box. The Scarpa Otaki is better suited for technical climbing and delicate footwork, as it has a slightly softer sole and a wider heel. It also offers more ventilation, making it a great choice for hot days. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference.