A Comparison of the Scarpa Drago and Testarossa
When it comes to choosing the right climbing shoe, two of the most popular options are the Scarpa Drago and Testarossa. Both shoes provide excellent performance, but they each have their own unique features which make them suitable for different types of climbers and climbing styles. In this article, we’ll compare the two shoes in terms of fit, type of climbing, sole stiffness, shape, closure system, materials, price, personal preference, toe box shape, heel cup, weight, and level of ventilation.
| Feature | Scarpa Drago | Testarossa |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Narrow | Wide |
| Climbing | Precision | Comfort & Smearing |
| Sole Stiffness | Stiff | Soft |
| Shape | Asymmetric | Symmetric |
| Closure System | Lace-up | Slipper |
| Materials | Synthetic & Suede | Synthetic |
| Price | Mid-Range | Mid-Range |
Fit
The Scarpa Drago generally has a snug fit, which is ideal for climbers with narrow feet who don’t want their toes to move around in their shoes. The Testarossa, on the other hand, has a slightly wider fit which is best for climbers with wider feet. Both shoes have a relatively low volume fit, meaning they don’t take up much space in the toe box.
The heel of the Drago is slightly higher than the Testarossa, so it may not fit as well on climbers with low-volume feet. The Testarossa, on the other hand, has a slightly deeper heel cup, so it may provide a better fit for climbers with high-volume feet.
The Drago also has a slightly higher arch compared to the Testarossa, so it may be more comfortable for climbers with a high arch. The Testarossa, on the other hand, has a slightly lower arch which may be better for climbers with a lower arch.
Type of Climbing
The Scarpa Drago is designed for technical edging and precision climbing, thanks to its stiff sole and snug fit. The Testarossa, on the other hand, is designed for comfort and smearing, as it has a slightly softer sole and wider fit.
Both shoes are suitable for all-day multi-pitch climbing, but the Drago may provide a better fit for longer routes due to its snugger fit. The Testarossa, however, may provide more comfort on longer routes due to its softer sole and wider fit.
Sole Stiffness
The sole of the Scarpa Drago is much stiffer than the Testarossa, making it ideal for technical edging and precision climbing. The Testarossa has a slightly softer sole, making it better suited for smearing and comfort.
The Drago also has a slightly thicker sole, which can help protect the feet from sharp edges and sharp rocks. The Testarossa, on the other hand, has a slightly thinner sole which can provide greater sensitivity on the rock.
Shape
The Scarpa Drago has a slightly asymmetric shape, which makes it better suited for technical edging and precision climbing. The Testarossa has a slightly symmetric shape, which makes it better suited for smearing and comfort.
Both shoes have a slightly downturned shape, making them suitable for climbers who prefer a more aggressive stance on the rock. The Drago, however, has a slightly more downturned shape than the Testarossa, making it better suited for climbers who prefer a super aggressive stance.
Closure System
The Scarpa Drago has a lace-up closure system, which allows for a more precise fit and greater adjustment. The Testarossa has a slipper closure system, which is much faster to put on and take off, but offers less adjustment.
Both shoes have a Velcro strap at the top of the foot, which helps to keep the heel snug and secure while climbing. The Drago also has an additional strap at the back of the heel, which can help to keep the heel in place even on technical routes.
Materials
The Scarpa Drago is made with a combination of synthetic and suede leather, which provides excellent durability and breathability. The Testarossa is made with a single piece of synthetic leather, which is slightly more breathable but less durable.
The Drago also has a rubber toe rand, which helps to protect the toes from sharp edges and sharp rocks. The Testarossa has a slightly thinner toe rand, which provides less protection but more sensitivity on the rock.
Price
The Scarpa Drago and Testarossa are both mid-range shoes, and they are priced similarly. The Drago may be slightly more expensive due to its higher quality materials and construction.Personal Preference
Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference when deciding between the Scarpa Drago and Testarossa. If you prefer a snugger fit, technical edging, and precision climbing, then the Drago may be the better choice. If you prefer a wider fit, comfort, and smearing, then the Testarossa may be better suited for you.
Toe Box Shape
The toe box of the Scarpa Drago is slightly narrower than the Testarossa, which may make it more comfortable for climbers with narrow feet. The Testarossa has a slightly wider toe box, which may be more comfortable for climbers with wider feet.
Both shoes have a slightly downturned toe box, which makes them suitable for climbers who prefer a more aggressive stance on the rock. The Drago, however, has a slightly more downturned toe box than the Testarossa.
Heel Cup
The Scarpa Drago has a slightly higher heel cup than the Testarossa, making it better suited for climbers with low-volume feet. The Testarossa has a slightly deeper heel cup, making it better suited for climbers with high-volume feet.
Both shoes have a rubber heel cup, which helps to keep the foot secure while climbing and prevents the heel from slipping out of the shoe. The Drago also has an additional heel strap, which can help to keep the heel in place even on technical routes.
Weight
The Scarpa Drago is slightly heavier than the Testarossa, due to its higher quality materials and construction. The Testarossa is slightly lighter, due to its single piece of synthetic leather.
Both shoes are light enough to be suitable for all-day multi-pitch climbing. The Testarossa may be slightly better for longer routes due to its lighter weight, while the Drago may be slightly better for shorter routes due to its higher quality construction.
Level of Ventilation
The Scarpa Drago has slightly better ventilation than the Testarossa, due to its combination of synthetic and suede leather. The Testarossa has slightly better breathability, due to its single piece of synthetic leather.
Both shoes are breathable enough to keep the feet cool and dry during long days of climbing. The Drago may provide slightly better ventilation on hot days due to its higher quality materials and construction.
In conclusion, the Scarpa Drago and Testarossa are both excellent climbing shoes which provide excellent performance. The Drago may be better suited for climbers with narrow feet who prefer precision climbing, while the Testarossa may be better suited for climbers with wider feet who prefer smearing and comfort. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference when deciding between the two shoes.