Comparing the Scarpa Helix and the Evolv Defy
The world of climbing shoes is filled to the brim with options, and it can be difficult to decide which shoe is best for you. In this article, we’ll be comparing two of the most popular climbing shoes on the market: the Scarpa Helix and the Evolv Defy. We’ll give an in-depth breakdown of the pros and cons of each, so you can decide which shoe is best for you.
| Feature | Scarpa Helix | Evolv Defy |
|---|---|---|
| Type of Climbing | Sport, Bouldering | Sport, Bouldering, Trad |
| Sole Stiffness | Medium | Medium |
| Shape | Symmetrical | Asymmetrical |
| Closure System | Lace | Slip-On |
| Materials | Leather | Synthetic |
| Price | $$$ | $$ |
Fit
When it comes to fit, the Scarpa Helix has an edge over the Evolv Defy. The Helix is designed with a wider fit, with a slightly asymmetrical heel cup and a slightly curved toe box. This allows for better toe scumming and heel hooking, as well as better control and power transfer when transitioning between holds. The Evolv Defy, on the other hand, has a more snug fit, with a slightly more symmetrical heel cup and a slightly less curved toe box. This makes it better suited for long routes and extended periods of climbing.
The Helix also has an adjustable lacing system, which allows for a more custom fit. The Defy, on the other hand, has a slip-on closure system, which is great for taking the shoe on and off quickly, but it doesn’t allow for any adjustments to the fit.
Type of Climbing
Both the Scarpa Helix and the Evolv Defy are designed for sport and bouldering, but the Helix has an edge in this regard. Its wider fit and adjustable lacing system make it more suited to overhanging routes and more technical moves. The Defy, on the other hand, is also suitable for sport and bouldering, but it also has an advantage in trad climbing. Its snugger fit and slip-on closure system makes it better suited for long routes and crack climbing.
Sole Stiffness
Both the Scarpa Helix and the Evolv Defy have medium sole stiffness. This allows for a good balance between edging and smearing, making them suitable for a wide range of climbing styles. The Helix, however, is slightly stiffer, which makes it better suited for long routes and crack climbing. The Defy, on the other hand, is slightly softer, which makes it better suited for technical moves and overhanging routes.
Shape
The Scarpa Helix is symmetrical, while the Evolv Defy is asymmetrical. This makes the Helix better suited for toe scumming and heel hooking, while the Defy is better suited for toe hooking and edging. The asymmetrical shape of the Defy also gives it an edge when transitioning between holds.
Closure System
The Scarpa Helix has an adjustable lacing system, while the Evolv Defy has a slip-on closure system. The lacing system of the Helix allows for greater adjustment of the fit, while the slip-on closure system of the Defy is great for taking the shoe on and off quickly.
Materials
The Scarpa Helix is made from leather, while the Evolv Defy is made from synthetic materials. The leather of the Helix is more breathable and durable, which is great for long routes and crack climbing. The synthetic materials of the Defy, on the other hand, are more lightweight and breathable, which makes it better suited for sport and bouldering.
Price
The Scarpa Helix is a bit more pricey than the Evolv Defy. The Helix is priced at around $$$, while the Defy is priced at around $$. The higher price of the Helix is due to its higher quality materials and adjustable lacing system.Personal Preference
Ultimately, which shoe you choose comes down to personal preference. The Helix is great for long routes and crack climbing, while the Defy is better for sport and bouldering. If you’re looking for a shoe with an adjustable fit, then the Helix is the way to go. If you’re looking for a shoe with a slip-on closure system, then the Defy is your best bet.
Toe Box Shape
The toe box shape of the Scarpa Helix is slightly curved, while the toe box shape of the Evolv Defy is slightly less curved. This makes the Helix better suited for toe scumming and heel hooking, while the Defy is better suited for toe hooking and edging.
Heel Cup
The heel cup of the Scarpa Helix is slightly asymmetrical, while the heel cup of the Evolv Defy is slightly more symmetrical. This makes the Helix better suited for overhanging routes and more technical moves, while the Defy is better suited for long routes and crack climbing.
Weight
The weight of the Scarpa Helix is slightly greater than the weight of the Evolv Defy. The Helix weighs in at around 10.4oz for a size US 9, while the Defy weighs in at around 9.3oz for the same size. The heavier weight of the Helix makes it more suitable for long routes and crack climbing, while the lighter weight of the Defy makes it better suited for sport and bouldering.
Ventilation
The Scarpa Helix is made from leather, which is more breathable than the synthetic materials of the Evolv Defy. This makes the Helix better suited for long routes and crack climbing, while the Defy is better suited for sport and bouldering.
Conclusion
The Scarpa Helix and the Evolv Defy are two of the most popular climbing shoes on the market. The Helix is great for long routes and crack climbing, while the Defy is better for sport and bouldering. The Helix is slightly more expensive, but it offers an adjustable lacing system, which is great for customizing the fit. The Defy is slightly cheaper, but it has a slip-on closure system, which is great for taking the shoe on and off quickly. Ultimately, which shoe you choose comes down to personal preference.