The Battle of the Shoes – Scarpa Instinct Lace Up vs Miura
When it comes to climbing, the shoes you choose are almost as important as the route itself. Every climber has their own unique preferences and needs, and choosing the right pair of shoes can make a huge difference in their climbing experience.
Today, we’ll be looking at two of the most popular models of climbing shoes: the Scarpa Instinct Lace Up and the Miura. Both of these shoes come with their own set of features, so we’ll be comparing them in various categories to help you decide which one is right for you.
| Feature | Scarpa Instinct Lace Up | Miura |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Performance | Performance |
| Type of Climbing | Bouldering, Sport, Indoor | Technical, Crack, Bouldering |
| Sole Stiffness | Mid-stiff | Stiff |
| Shape | Aggressive | Moderate |
| Closure System | Lace-up | Velcro |
| Materials | Leather | Leather, Synthetic |
| Price | $$ | $$ |
| Personal Preference | High Technique | Versatility |
Fit
When it comes to fit, both the Scarpa Instinct Lace Up and the Miura are designed for performance. While the Instinct Lace Up is slightly narrower and more snug, the Miura provides more room for your feet and is generally more comfortable. The Instinct Lace Up is perfect for those who need a tight fit for better control, while the Miura is ideal for those who prefer a more relaxed fit.
In terms of edging, the Instinct Lace Up is more precise, with a tighter fit that provides better control and power. It’s also better for smearing and standing on small edges, thanks to its more aggressive shape. The Miura, on the other hand, is more flexible and comfortable, and its moderate shape makes it better suited for wider cracks and edging on larger holds.
Finally, the Instinct Lace Up has a slightly lower volume, making it better suited for those with narrow feet, while the Miura has a higher volume and is better for those with wider feet.
Type of Climbing
The Scarpa Instinct Lace Up is designed for bouldering, sport climbing, and indoor climbing. Its technical rubber sole is perfect for edging on small holds, and its mid-stiffness makes it more comfortable when standing on edges. It’s also great for smearing and maintaining a high level of control.
The Miura is designed for more technical climbing, such as crack climbing, bouldering, and sport climbing. Its stiff sole provides more support on steep terrain, and its moderate shape helps you to edge comfortably on larger holds. The Miura is also great for smearing and precision foot placements.
Sole Stiffness
The sole stiffness of the Scarpa Instinct Lace Up is mid-stiff, which makes it comfortable for standing on small edges and smearing. It also provides enough support for sport and indoor climbing.
The Miura’s sole stiffness is much stiffer, which makes it better for technical climbing. Its stiff sole helps to provide more support on steep terrain, and its moderate shape makes it comfortable for edging on larger holds.
Shape
The shape of the Scarpa Instinct Lace Up is quite aggressive, which makes it perfect for smearing and standing on small edges. It also has a lower volume, making it more suitable for climbers with narrow feet.
The Miura has a more moderate shape, making it better for standing on larger holds. Its higher volume makes it more comfortable for those with wide feet.
Closure System
The Scarpa Instinct Lace Up has a lace-up closure system, which provides a tight and secure fit and allows for precise fit adjustments.
The Miura has a Velcro closure system, which makes it easy to take on and off, and also provides a secure fit.
Materials
The Scarpa Instinct Lace Up is made of leather, which offers durability and long-lasting performance.
The Miura is made of leather and synthetic materials, which provide durability and breathability.
Price
The Scarpa Instinct Lace Up and the Miura both have a price tag of $$.Personal Preference
The Scarpa Instinct Lace Up is better suited for those who need a tight and precise fit, as well as those who prefer a more technical style of climbing. The Miura is better suited for those who need a comfortable and relaxed fit, as well as those who prefer a more versatile style of climbing.
Toe Box Shape
The toe box shape of the Scarpa Instinct Lace Up is slightly downturned and aggressive, making it perfect for edging on small holds.
The toe box shape of the Miura is neutral and moderate, making it more suitable for edging on larger holds.
Heel Cup
The heel cup of the Scarpa Instinct Lace Up is moderately stiff, providing enough support and control for edging and smearing.
The heel cup of the Miura is quite stiff, providing more support and better control on steep terrain.
Weight
The Scarpa Instinct Lace Up is relatively lightweight, weighing in at approximately 10.6 ounces per shoe.
The Miura is slightly heavier, weighing in at approximately 12.6 ounces per shoe.
Level of Ventilation
The Scarpa Instinct Lace Up has a moderate level of ventilation, thanks to its leather upper.
The Miura has a higher level of ventilation, thanks to its combination of leather and synthetic materials.
In the end, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer to which model is better for you. Both the Scarpa Instinct Lace Up and the Miura have their pros and cons, and it all comes down to personal preference. Whether you prefer the precision and control of the Instinct Lace Up or the comfort and versatility of the Miura, you can’t go wrong with either of these shoes.
No matter which one you choose, you’ll be ready for any climbing challenge or adventure that comes your way.