Comparing the Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe and the Vibram XS Edge
| Feature | Scarpa Instinct VS | Vibram XS Edge |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Medium/Narrow | Medium/Low Volume |
| Type of Climbing | Sport, Bouldering | Bouldering, Technical Face Climbing |
| Sole Stiffness | Medium | Soft |
| Shape | Curve/Down-Camber | Asymmetrical |
| Closure System | Slip-on/Elasticated Lace System | Velcro/Slip-on |
| Materials | Microsuede/Unlined | Unlined/Vibram® XS Edge Rubber |
| Price | $$$ | $$ |
Fit
The fit of any climbing shoe is one of the most important features to consider when choosing. The Scarpa Instinct VS offers a medium/narrow fit, making it a great choice for those who have a narrow foot and need a secure fit. The Vibram XS Edge features a medium/low volume fit, making it ideal for those with low volume feet or a wide toe box.
In terms of comfort, the Instinct VS is slightly better. The split grain leather upper provides excellent cushioning and breathability, while the elasticated lace system ensures the shoe fits securely and comfortably. On the other hand, the Vibram XS Edge is not as comfortable. The upper is made of a soft, unlined material which can cause some discomfort.
The Instinct VS also offers better heel support. Its deep heel cup locks your heel in place, while the Vibram XS Edge’s low-cut heel cup can feel a bit loose and less secure.
Type of Climbing
The type of climbing you’ll do can also be an important factor in selecting the right climbing shoe. The Scarpa Instinct VS is designed for sport and bouldering. It has an aggressive down-camber shape which allows for greater precision on steep terrain. The Vibram XS Edge is designed for bouldering and technical face climbing. Its asymmetrical shape and sticky rubber sole make it perfect for edging and smearing.
Sole Stiffness
The sole stiffness of a climbing shoe can also be an important factor in choosing the right one. The Scarpa Instinct VS has a medium-stiff sole which offers the perfect balance of support and flexibility. The Vibram XS Edge has a softer sole which provides excellent grip and sensitivity on technical terrain.
Shape
The shape of climbing shoes is another important factor to consider when choosing the right one. The Scarpa Instinct VS has a curved/down-camber shape which allows for greater precision on steep terrain. The Vibram XS Edge has an asymmetrical shape which is ideal for edging and smearing.
Closure System
The closure system of a climbing shoe is also an important factor to consider. The Scarpa Instinct VS features a slip-on/elasticated lace system which provides a secure fit. The Vibram XS Edge uses a combination of Velcro and slip-on closure, which is quick and easy to get on and off.
Materials
Climbing shoes are usually made of different materials. The Scarpa Instinct VS is made of microsuede/unlined material which is lightweight and breathable. The Vibram XS Edge is made of a soft, unlined material which provides excellent grip and sensitivity on technical terrain.
Price
Personal Preference
In the end, it all comes down to personal preference. The Scarpa Instinct VS is a great choice for those who need a secure, performance-oriented shoe for sport and bouldering. The Vibram XS Edge is perfect for those who need a lightweight, sensitive shoe for technical face climbing and bouldering.
Toe Box Shape
The toe box shape of a climbing shoe can also be an important factor to consider when choosing the right one. The Scarpa Instinct VS has a curved/down-camber shape which offers excellent precision on steep terrain. The Vibram XS Edge has an asymmetrical shape which is great for smearing and edging.
Heel Cup
The heel cup of a climbing shoe is also an important factor to consider. The Scarpa Instinct VS has a deep, secure heel cup which locks your foot in place. The Vibram XS Edge has a low-cut heel cup which can feel a bit loose.
Weight
When it comes to weight, the Scarpa Instinct VS is slightly heavier than the Vibram XS Edge. The Instinct VS weighs about 10.7 ounces per shoe, while the XS Edge weighs about 8.8 ounces per shoe.
Level of Ventilation
The level of ventilation of a climbing shoe is also an important factor to consider. The Scarpa Instinct VS is slightly better in this regard. The unlined upper provides excellent breathability and helps keep your feet cool and dry. The Vibram XS Edge is also breathable, but not as much as the Instinct VS.
In conclusion, the Scarpa Instinct VS and the Vibram XS Edge are both excellent climbing shoes. Both shoes offer a secure fit and are designed to be performance-oriented and lightweight. The Scarpa Instinct VS is a great choice for sport and bouldering, while the Vibram XS Edge is perfect for technical face climbing and bouldering. Ultimately, it all comes down to personal preference and the type of climbing you’ll do.