Scarpa Instinct Vs Katana – A Comparison
|Shoe Shape||Aggressive||Moderately Aggressive|
|Toe Box Shape||Down-turned||Neutral|
The Scarpa Instinct has a medium fit, providing a snug but comfortable fit that many climbers find to be ideal. The Katana, on the other hand, is designed with a low-fitting design. This can be an advantage in terms of comfort and agility, as the low profile that the Katana provides makes it easier to move quickly and accurately while climbing. However, the tight fit of the lower profile can sometimes create a feeling of discomfort and lack of support.
For many climbers, the best option would be to try on both shoes and decide which fit is more comfortable. The Scarpa Instinct is slightly wider than the Katana, so it can also be a good option for climbers with wider feet.
Climbing Type Suitability
The Scarpa Instinct has been designed for use in a variety of climbing styles, from bouldering to technical face climbing. The aggressive shape of the shoe encourages climbers to stand on small edges and pockets, making it an ideal choice for more technical climbs. The Katana, on the other hand, has been designed with a slightly less aggressive shape and is more suitable for bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing. The moderate shape of the Katana allows for more sensitivity and comfort when climbing.
In terms of versatility, the Scarpa Instinct is the more suitable choice for climbers who like to try different styles of climbing. The Katana, however, is best suited to those who prefer to focus on one type of climbing.
Sole Stiffness Comparison
The sole stiffness of both shoes is rated as medium, making them suitable for a variety of climbing types. The Scarpa Instinct has a slightly firmer midsole than the Katana, while the Katana has a slightly softer midsole. This makes the Katana slightly more sensitive, while the Instinct is slightly stiffer and more supportive.
The stiffness of the sole also affects the way the shoes fit. The slightly firmer sole of the Scarpa Instinct provides more support and stability, while the softer sole of the Katana allows for more flexibility and comfort.
Shoe Shape Comparison
The toe box of the Scarpa Instinct is more down-turned than that of the Katana, giving it an aggressive shape that is well suited to technical climbing. The shape of the toe box encourages climbers to stand on small edges and pockets, making it ideal for steep and overhung routes. The Katana, on the other hand, has a more neutral toe box shape that is better suited to easier and more moderate climbs. The neutral shape of the Katana allows for greater comfort and maneuverability.
The Scarpa Instinct is equipped with a two-strap Velcro closure system, which provides a secure and adjustable fit. The two straps can be easily adjusted to provide more support or less, depending on the type of climb. The Katana, on the other hand, has a traditional lace closure system. This allows for a more precise fit, as it can be adjusted as needed to ensure a snug and comfortable fit.
The Scarpa Instinct is made with a synthetic upper, while the Katana is made with a combination of leather and synthetic materials. The synthetic upper of the Instinct provides good breathability and durability, while the combination of leather and synthetic materials in the Katana provides greater support and comfort.
At the end of the day, the decision between the Scarpa Instinct and Katana will come down to personal preference. Some climbers may find the aggressive shape of the Instinct to be more comfortable, while others may prefer the more neutral shape of the Katana. Ultimately, it is important to try on both shoes to determine which one best suits your style and needs.
Toe Box Shape
The toe box of the Scarpa Instinct is more down-turned than that of the Katana, making it more suitable for technical climbing. The down-turned toe box encourages climbers to stand on small edges and pockets, making it ideal for steep and overhung routes. The Katana, on the other hand, has a more neutral toe box shape that is better suited to easier and more moderate climbs.
Heel Cup Comparison
The heel cup of the Scarpa Instinct is rated as medium, while the heel cup of the Katana is rated as high. The medium heel cup of the Instinct provides good support and stability, while the high heel cup of the Katana allows for greater control and precision when climbing.
The Scarpa Instinct and Katana are both relatively lightweight shoes. The Scarpa Instinct weighs 9.7 oz, while the Katana weighs 9.2 oz. Both shoes are well-suited for long routes, as their light weight helps to reduce fatigue.
The Scarpa Instinct and Katana both have high levels of ventilation, making them ideal for use in hot climates. The synthetic upper of the Instinct provides good breathability, while the combination of leather and synthetic materials in the Katana ensures that feet stay cool and dry.
In conclusion, both the Scarpa Instinct and Katana are great shoes for climbers. They both have their unique features and benefits that make them suitable for different types of climbing. It is important to try on both shoes and decide which one best fits your style and needs.