Comparing the Scarpa Vapor V and the La Sportiva Katana
The Scarpa Vapor V and the La Sportiva Katana are two of the most popular climbing shoes on the market. Both shoes have unique features that make them ideal for different types of climbing. In this article, we will compare both shoes side-by-side to help you decide which one is best for you.
| Feature | Scarpa Vapor V | La Sportiva Katana |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Snug | Aggressive |
| Type | Multi-pitch | Sport Climbing |
| Sole | Medium | Stiff |
| Shape | Moderate | Aggressive |
Fit
The Scarpa Vapor V is designed to fit your foot snugly, without being too tight. The upper part of the shoe is made from a combination of synthetic leather and suede, with a breathable mesh panel on the inside. This combination gives the shoe a secure fit and excellent ventilation. The La Sportiva Katana, on the other hand, is designed for a more aggressive fit. The entire upper is made from synthetic leather, with a more pronounced heel cup. This shoe is designed to fit your foot tightly, allowing you to feel every bit of the rock beneath your feet.
Type of Climbing
The Scarpa Vapor V is designed for a variety of climbing styles, from sport climbing to trad climbing. The shoe’s medium stiffness and moderate downturn make it ideal for technical footwork on overhangs, but the shoe can also handle the demands of long multi-pitch routes. The La Sportiva Katana, however, is designed for pure sport climbing. The shoe’s aggressive shape and stiff sole make it ideal for gripping onto small holds and executing precise footwork.
Sole Stiffness
The Scarpa Vapor V has a medium stiffness sole, designed to provide the perfect balance between sensitivity and support. This makes the shoe ideal for all kinds of climbing, from edging on small holds to smearing on slabby surfaces. The La Sportiva Katana, however, has a much stiffer sole. This makes the shoe ideal for edging on small holds and precision footwork, but it can be uncomfortable for smearing and long multi-pitch routes.
Shape
The Scarpa Vapor V has a moderately downturned shape and a slightly asymmetrical toe box. This makes the shoe ideal for technical footwork and smearing on overhangs, but it is not as aggressive as the La Sportiva Katana. The Katana has a much more pronounced downturn, as well as an asymmetrical toe box. This makes the shoe ideal for gripping onto small holds and executing precise footwork.
Closure System
Both shoes have a simple lacing system, with the Vapor V offering four loops and the Katana offering five. The Vapor V has a single-pull lace system, making it easy to fine-tune the fit of the shoe. The Katana, however, has a traditional lacing system, allowing you to get a more precise fit.
Materials
The upper of the Scarpa Vapor V is made from a combination of synthetic leather and breathable mesh. This combination gives the shoe a secure fit and excellent ventilation. The La Sportiva Katana is made from a single layer of synthetic leather, which provides a snug fit and excellent durability. The sole of both shoes is made from rubber, providing excellent grip and durability.
Price
Both shoes are relatively affordable, with the Scarpa Vapor V costing around $140 and the La Sportiva Katana costing around $180. Although the Katana is more expensive, its performance and durability more than make up for the difference in price.Personal Preference
The type of climbing you prefer will determine which shoe is right for you. If you’re a sport climber looking for an aggressive shoe with a stiff sole, the La Sportiva Katana is a great choice. If you’re a multi-pitch or trad climber looking for a shoe that’s comfortable on long routes, then the Scarpa Vapor V is a great choice.
Toe Box Shape
The toe box of the Scarpa Vapor V is slightly asymmetrical and moderately downturned, providing technical precision and support. The La Sportiva Katana, however, has a much more pronounced downturn and an asymmetrical toe box, making it ideal for gripping onto small holds.
Heel Cup
The heel cup of the Scarpa Vapor V is slightly narrower than the La Sportiva Katana, providing a secure fit without being too tight. The Katana, however, has a much more pronounced heel cup, providing a secure and aggressive fit.
Weight
The Scarpa Vapor V is relatively lightweight, weighing in at around 9.5 ounces (270 grams). The La Sportiva Katana is slightly heavier, weighing in at around 10.5 ounces (300 grams).
Level of Ventilation
The Scarpa Vapor V has excellent ventilation, thanks to the combination of synthetic leather and breathable mesh. The La Sportiva Katana, on the other hand, has less ventilation due to the single layer of synthetic leather.
Conclusion
The Scarpa Vapor V and the La Sportiva Katana are two of the most popular climbing shoes on the market. Both shoes have unique features that make them ideal for different types of climbing. The Vapor V is designed for a variety of climbing styles, from sport climbing to trad climbing, and has a medium stiffness sole for optimal sensitivity and support. The Katana, however, is designed for pure sport climbing, with an aggressive shape and stiff sole for precise footwork. In the end, the best shoe for you will depend on your climbing style and personal preference.