Comparing the Vxi and Scarpa Instinct Shoes
The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct are two of the most popular climbing shoes on the market. They are designed for all types of climbing, from bouldering to multi-pitch routes. Both shoes have similar features, such as a stiff midsole and a low profile rubber sole. They are available in both men’s and women’s models, and in a range of sizes. But which shoe is the right one for you?
In this article, we compare the features of the Vxi and Scarpa Instinct to help you decide which one is a better fit for your needs.
| Feature | Vxi | Scarpa Instinct |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Low profile, aggressive fit | Low profile, moderate fit |
| Type of Climbing | Overhanging routes and steep, technical terrain | Edging and slab climbing |
| Sole Stiffness | Stiff midsole | Softer midsole |
| Shape | Downturned | Neutral |
| Closure System | Traditional lace-up with elastic strap | Traditional lace-up with gusseted tongue |
| Materials | Suede, synthetic leather, EVA midsole and rubber sole | Synthetic leather, textile, soft midsole and rubber sole |
| Price | Slightly more expensive | Slightly less expensive |
Fit
The fit of the Vxi and Scarpa Instinct is similar. Both shoes have a low profile, aggressive shape with a snug fit. The Vxi is slightly narrower throughout the toe box, while the Scarpa Instinct has a slightly wider fit.
The Vxi has a slingshot heel cup that wraps around your heel to provide a secure fit. Its tongue is also gusseted to provide additional support and comfort. The Scarpa Instinct has a slightly softer heel cup, but still has a good fit. Its tongue is also gusseted to provide support and comfort.
Both the Vxi and Scarpa Instinct have an asymmetrical toe box shape which contours to your foot for extra precision when edging. The Vxi has a slightly downturned shape, while the Scarpa Instinct has a more neutral fit.
Type of Climbing
The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct are both designed for all types of climbing, from bouldering to multi-pitch routes. The Vxi is more suited to overhanging routes and steep, technical terrain, while the Scarpa Instinct is better for edging and slab climbing.
The Vxi has a stiff midsole that provides support and power when climbing overhanging routes. The Scarpa Instinct has a softer midsole, which makes it better for edging on slabs and smaller footholds.
The Vxi has an aggressive toe hooking shape which is great for toe hooking and pocket climbing. The Scarpa Instinct has a more moderate toe hooking shape which is better for cracks and slabs.
Sole Stiffness
The Vxi has a stiff midsole that provides support and power when climbing overhanging routes. The Scarpa Instinct has a softer midsole which makes it better for edging on slabs and smaller footholds.
The Vxi has a low profile rubber sole that provides good grip and abrasion resistance. The Scarpa Instinct also has a low profile rubber sole, but it is slightly softer for better edging performance.
The Vxi has a slightly thicker midsole which provides extra cushioning for long multi-pitch routes. The Scarpa Instinct has a thinner midsole which makes it better for edging on small footholds.
Shape
The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct both have a low profile, aggressive shape. The Vxi has a slightly downturned shape, while the Scarpa Instinct has a more neutral fit.
The Vxi has an asymmetrical toe box which contours to your foot for extra precision when edging. The Scarpa Instinct also has an asymmetrical toe box, but it is slightly wider than the Vxi.
The Vxi has a slingshot heel cup which wraps around your heel to provide a secure fit. The Scarpa Instinct has a slightly softer heel cup, but still has a good fit.
Closure System
The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct both use a traditional lace-up closure system. The lacing system is secure and provides a good fit.
The Vxi has an additional elastic strap across the top of the shoe for extra support and comfort. The Scarpa Instinct does not have the elastic strap, but does have a gusseted tongue for extra support and comfort.
Materials
The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct are both made from high quality materials. The upper of the Vxi is made from a combination of suede and synthetic leather for support and breathability. The upper of the Scarpa Instinct is made from a combination of synthetic leather and textile for durability and breathability.
Both shoes have a low profile rubber sole which allows for good grip and abrasion resistance. The Vxi has an EVA midsole for cushioning and support, while the Scarpa Instinct has a softer midsole for better edging performance.
Price
The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct are both premium climbing shoes, and are priced accordingly. The Vxi is slightly more expensive than the Scarpa Instinct, but the difference in price is not significant.Personal Preference
At the end of the day, the best climbing shoe for you is the one that fits the best and meets your needs. The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct are both excellent shoes, and either one could be an excellent choice.
If you like a snug, aggressive fit and you’re looking for a shoe that can handle overhanging routes, the Vxi is a great choice. If you’re more interested in edging and slab climbing, the Scarpa Instinct is an excellent option.
Toe Box Shape
The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct both have an asymmetrical toe box shape which contours to your foot for extra precision when edging. The Vxi has a slightly downturned shape, while the Scarpa Instinct has a more neutral fit.
The Vxi has a slightly narrower toe box than the Scarpa Instinct, which helps to provide a secure fit. The Scarpa Instinct has a slightly wider toe box, which makes it better for those with wider feet.
Heel Cup
The Vxi has a slingshot heel cup which wraps around your heel to provide a secure fit. The Scarpa Instinct has a slightly softer heel cup, but still has a good fit.
The Vxi has an elastic strap across the top of the shoe for extra support and comfort. The Scarpa Instinct does not have the elastic strap, but does have a gusseted tongue for extra support and comfort.
Weight
The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct are both lightweight climbing shoes. The Vxi weighs in at around 8.7 ounces and the Scarpa Instinct is slightly lighter at around 8.3 ounces.
Level of Ventilation
The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct both have good levels of ventilation. The upper of the Vxi is made from a combination of suede and synthetic leather which provides breathability, while the upper of the Scarpa Instinct is made from a combination of synthetic leather and textile for durability and breathability.
The Vxi has an EVA midsole for cushioning and support, while the Scarpa Instinct has a softer midsole for better edging performance. Both shoes have a low profile rubber sole which allows for good grip and abrasion resistance.
The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct are both excellent climbing shoes, and it is hard to go wrong with either one. The Vxi is more suited to overhanging routes and steep, technical terrain, while the Scarpa Instinct is better for edging and slab climbing. The Vxi has a snug fit with a slightly downturned shape, while the Scarpa Instinct has a more neutral fit with a slightly wider toe box. Both shoes have a low profile rubber sole, traditional lace-up closure system, and are made from high quality materials.
At the end of the day, the best climbing shoe for you is the one that fits the best and meets your needs. The Vxi and Scarpa Instinct are both excellent shoes, and either one could be a great choice. Do your research, try both shoes on, and make sure you’re getting the right shoe for your needs.